Paddling The North: a 3-Day Road Trip in Terrace

Usk Ferry

My friend Chris and I began our Terrace adventure on the Skeena River, one of BC’s most storied waterways. We launched at the Usk Ferry—just east of town—paddling a tandem canoe alongside three women in a bright 14-foot raft. The current carried us westward under a late-summer sun, and within minutes, we were surrounded by towering ridges and the rhythmic splash of paddles echoing off the valley walls.

A short stretch of Class II rapids near Usk added a touch of excitement, but otherwise, the water was calm and forgiving—perfect for sightseeing. Along the banks, anglers cast lines for salmon, and on the far side of the river, we passed several traditional First Nations fish wheels slowly rotating in the current, a timeless and sustainable way of harvesting fish that has been practiced here for generations.

Kim’s BnB

By late afternoon we reached Braun Island, tired but buzzing from the experience. We spent the night at an Airbnb on 2315 Doll Road, right on the riverbank. The owner, Kim Hoekstra, is a longtime river guide and avid paddler who shared stories about local whitewater spots and salmon runs while the sunset painted the Skeena in hues of gold and crimson. With a campfire crackling and the sound of water rushing past, we couldn’t imagine a better start to our Terrace paddling tour.

Lakeelse River Provincial Park

We launched from the southern end, near Lakelse River Provincial Park, and glided across glassy water so still it reflected the mountains like a mirror. The kids rode in canoes while Daiva balanced effortlessly on a paddleboard. We drifted past patches of reeds and the wide mouth of the Lakelse River, where we spotted a heron stalking the shallows and an osprey circling overhead.

The most surprising part? We had the entire lake to ourselves. No boats, no crowds—just peace and the echo of loon calls. It felt like a secret place.

Bert’s Delicatessen

After packing up, we headed into town for lunch at Bert’s Delicatessen, a beloved local spot where the sandwiches are stacked high and the ice cream is legendary. The kids devoured sundaes while the adults discussed where to paddle next.

Kathleen’s Grill

Later that day, we visited Kathleen’s Grill, a nostalgic diner with milkshakes, hand-cut fries, and chrome counters straight out of the 1950s. Between the laughter, the burgers, and the retro tunes, it was the perfect end to a family-friendly day on the lake.

Kalum Canyon

We hiked in to Kalum Canyon, a narrow slot where the river squeezes between towering rock walls. Below us, kayaker Jake Lambert and six of his friends prepared to run the Class III+ rapids. As we perched on a boulder above the chute, the roar of the water was thunderous. One by one, the kayakers dropped into the wave train, disappearing behind spray and reemerging airborne, their boats momentarily flying before slapping back into the white froth. It was pure power and grace.

Skeena Bar

While I’m no whitewater kayaker—those rapids are well beyond my comfort zone—it was thrilling to witness such skill up close. Later, Chris, the photographer, and I toasted the experience with pints at the Skeena Bar, recounting each drop and wave as if we’d been in the kayaks ourselves.